Eye Opener: An Indian-American Visits Pakistan
Many of us travel for business or leisure. But few ever take a trip that dramatically shatters their entire worldview of a country and a people in one fell swoop. I was lucky enough to have returned from just such a trip: a week-long sojourn in Pakistan.
It was a true eye-opener, and a thoroughly enjoyable one at that. Many of the assumptions and feelings I had held toward the country for nearly 30 years were challenged and exposed as wrong and even ignorant outright.
Yes, I was aware of all the reasons not to go, safety foremost among them. As an American, an Indian, and a Hindu there seemed to be multiple reasons for someone of my background to have concerns about security. Relatives and friends couldn’t hide their dismay and genuine fear; a frequent question was “why would you want to go?” The subtext is that there’s nothing to see there that’s worth the risk.
The Western and Indian media feed us a steady diet of stories about bomb blasts, gunfights, kidnappings, torture, subjugation of women, dysfunctional government, and scary madrassa schools that are training the next generation of jihadist terrorists. And yes, to many Westerners and especially Indians, Pakistan is the enemy, embodying all that is wrong in the world. Incidents such as the beheading of American journalist Daniel Pearl, 26/11 and the Osama Bin Laden raid in Abottobad have not helped the cause either. Numerous international relations analysts proclaim that Pakistan is “the most dangerous place in the world” and the border with India is “the most dangerous border in the world.”
I’m not naive enough to argue that these proclamations don’t have some elements of truth; through extensive academic work on Pakistan’s governance, its history, and its nuclear weapons arsenal I know that some problems are real. Rather, I am here to tell you that these aspects are overblown; that this country is about so much more, a whole other and much larger, beautiful, glorious, and uplifting side not given equal time by the media. I’ve seen it with my own eyes. And it’s time that Indians and Americans acknowledge Pakistan for what it really is as a whole- and our ignorance for what that is.
It may be easy to dismiss my firsthand experience as anecdotal: yes, I stayed in affluent neighborhoods in large cities, mostly met those who belong to the educated elite, was protected by firearm-toting bodyguards, and rarely revealed my ethnic background to most of the new people I met. Funnily enough, I don’t think now that the absence of any of these factors would have changed my experience at all.
The Genesis
My trip to Pakistan was not planned much in advance. I was in Sri Lanka for a friend’s wedding and spent a great deal of time with two Pakistani friends from my undergraduate days at Georgetown. Both are now businessmen, one in Karachi and the other in Lahore. I was going to be in India soon, and mentioned that a trip to Pakistan is something I always wanted to do, but I was too scared to execute it. Over the next few hours, we had some beer and seafood by the hotel swimming pool in Colombo and got into a detailed and lively discussion, during which time they insisted I visit and guaranteed my safety throughout the stay. My concerns allayed, I promised to make it happen, probably the first person from my family tree to visit Pakistan since the bloody 1947 partition. I was fortunate to have the opportunity for a fully hosted trip and couldn’t pass it up anymore. I have realized now more than ever before how deep the friendships forged during college can run- cutting across borders, cultures, and time.
Karachi
As I was about to land in Karachi on my flight from Colombo, Sri Lanka (direct flights from India are few and far between), I was gripped by a familiar fear. What the hell was I doing? What if I got detained in the airport and then deported because they found out my Indian ancestry and suspected my motives? How would my parents react if they learned I was the victim of a bomb blast while traveling around the city? On the plane I sat next to a very chatty and friendly executive from Lahore, who had gone to Sri Lanka on business. He was excited to tell me about Pakistan since it was my first visit, and the conversation was pleasant enough. But I kept feeling the growing knot of fear in my stomach. I tried to be brave as the plane landed. As my friend had said, 20 million people live in Karachi and now and then bad things happen, but the odds of it affecting me were very low.
Fortunately I got through immigration at the Quaid-e-Azam Airport quickly, and a friend was waiting for me with his pickup truck. The first thing I saw outside the airport was… a giant McDonald’s restaurant surrounded by a large and well-manicured green lawn. An unexpected welcome from the golden arches on a sunny, hot day.
Two uniformed bodyguards with rifles who were exceedingly friendly and welcoming climbed onto the pickup truck bed as we started on a 45-minute drive. I was impressed by the massive, well-maintained parks and gardens surrounding the airport. I was also impressed by the general cleanliness, the orderliness of the traffic, the quality of the roads, and the greenery. Coming from a city government background, I was surprised at how organized Karachi was throughout the ride. I also didn’t see many beggars the entire way. I had just spent significant amounts of time in two major Indian cities, Mumbai and Bangalore, as well as several second-tier cities like Mangalore, and none would compare favorably on maintenance and city planning, especially when it came to potholes and waste management. This was the first surprise; I was expecting that piles of garbage and dirt would line the roads and beggars would overflow onto the streets. Surely there is dirt and poverty in Karachi, but far less than I was expecting. Karachi was also less dense and crowded than India’s cities.
My second pleasant surprise was to see numerous large development projects under way. I had read about Pakistan’s sluggish GDP growth and corruption in public works and foreign aid disbursement. This may be true, but construction was going on all over the place: new movie theaters, new malls, new skyscrapers, new roads, and entire new neighborhoods being built from scratch. In this regard it was similar to India and every other part of Asia I had seen recently: new development and rapid change continues apace, something we are seeing less of in the West.
Just a few of the many highlights in Karachi included relaxing at beachside cafes, dining at amazing tandoori restaurants such as the massive Barbecue Tonight, an excellent burger/brunch joint called Xander’s, a visit to the historic and beautiful Mazar-e-Quaid where the nation’s founder, Muhammad Ali Jinnah is entombed in a marble mausoleum, visiting a book fair next to the British-era Frere Hall, and a sailboat ride around the Karachi port where a magnificent crab feast fit for a Mogul emperor was served on board. The service was so impeccable, the cooks would crack and remove individual crab claw shells by hand to make it easier to access the fresh meat.
We were also able to do some things which may sound more familiar to Americans: bowling at Karachi’s first bowling alley, intense games of pickup basketball with some local teenagers at a large public park (these kids could really play), or passing through massive and well-appointed malls filled with thousands of happy people of all ages walking around, shopping, or eating at the food court. We even attended a grand launch party for Magnum ice cream bars, featuring many of Pakistan’s A-list actors, models, and businesspeople. A friend who is involved in producing musicals directed an excellent performance at the party, complete with live band, singing, and dancing. This troupe, Made for Stage has also produced shows such as the Broadway musical Chicago to critical acclaim with an all-Pakistani cast for the first time in history.
Even the poor areas we visited, such as the neighborhoods around the Mazar, were filled with families coming out for a picnic or a stroll, enjoying their weekend leisure time in the sun. All I could see were friendly and happy people, including children with striking features running around. At no time did I feel the least bit unsafe anywhere we went, and we definitely went through a mix of neighborhoods with varying profiles.
Lahore
Lahore is more beautiful overall than Karachi or any large Indian city I’ve seen. Serious effort has gone into keeping the city green and preserving its storied history. Historians would have a field day here. In particular we saw two stunning historic mosques, the Wazir Khan and the Badshahi, both of which should be considered treasures not only for Muslims, Pakistanis, or South Asia, but for all of humanity. I felt it a crime that I’d never even heard of either one. Each of them in different ways features breath-taking architecture and intricate artwork comparable to India’s Taj Mahal. These are must-see sights for any tourist to Lahore. The best way to enjoy the vista of the Badshahi mosque is to have a meal on the rooftop of one of the many superb restaurants on Food Street next to the mosque compound. This interesting area was for hundreds of years an infamous red-light district, made up of a series of old wooden rowhouses that look like they were lifted straight out of New Orleans’ Bourbon Street, strangely juxtaposed with one of the country’s holiest shrines. From the roof of Cuckoo’s Den restaurant, we could see all of the massive Badshahi complex along with the adjoining royal fortress, all while having a 5-star meal of kebabs, spicy curries in clay pots, and lassi under the stars. We were fortunate to have very pleasant whether as well. This alfresco dining experience with two good friends encompassed my favorite moments in the city.
We did much more in Lahore. We were given a tour of the renowned Aitchison College, which one of my friends attended. This boys’ private prep school is known for its difficult entrance exams, rigorous academic tradition, illustrious list of alumni since the British founded the school, and its gorgeous and impeccably maintained 200-acre campus that puts most major universities icluding my own Georgetown to shame. Aitchison has been considered one of the best prep schools on the subcontinent since 1886. However, it would have been impossible to get a tour without the alumni connection because security is very thorough.
We went out to the village of Kasur, not too far from the famous Waga border with India, to see my friend’s agricultural business. This gave me a profile of village life, which like India makes up most of the country. The highway on the way was in very good condition, and the village was serene and pleasant, if poor. Just as with the cities, I saw lots of potential in this place. With more advanced farming, shipping, and storage methods, it’s quite likely that we will see much more wealth coming to Pakistan’s villages in the near future.
Beer seems to taste better when it’s bootlegged. There’s an alcohol prohibition in effect across Pakistan so there’s no other way to get it. One of the modern contradictions of Pakistani life is that the country has a top-notch brewer called Murree’s, set up during the British Raj, but the company officially exists only to export the beer- or to have it sold on the local black market, which is apparently insatiable. If you have the money and contacts, you are usually able to find booze. We spent two leisurely evenings in Lahore drinking Murree’s in my friend’s pool, swimming, chatting, and listening to music such as techno, hip-hop, and Talking Heads. Life does not get any better than that- in Pakistan or elsewhere.
In Conclusion
This is a story about more than individual friendships, which brought me to Pakistan in the first place. I was hosted by a number of people in their homes, including a former high-ranking general of the Pakistani Army, and treated like a part of the family despite my background. I conducted several meetings, both formal and informal to discuss business opportunities, and was always treated with great respect. I made a number of new friends, people who I hope to stay in touch with and see many times again.
Indians and Pakistanis should take a step back and think about all of the things they have in common. The brand of Islam I saw in Pakistan was benign, mostly relegated to melodic prayer calls from the minarets, and pleasant salutations between people. It is not an in-your-face brand of the religion as I have seen in the Middle East, where everyone is forced to conform to rules about clothing or shutting down business during prayer times. Pakistanis and Indians are cut from the same cloth, and really aren’t that different from each other. I think this was my biggest and most pleasant surprise of all. The ill feelings that do exist are mostly manufactured for political gain on both sides of the border, or based on slights from decades or even centuries ago.
Though there are grand challenges, foremost among them the issue of Kashmir and related border disputes, these should be easily overshadowed by the economic opportunities available to Pakistan, India, and the West by increasing their level of international trade. In fact, I believe commerce and the march of capitalism will provide the path for India and Pakistan to become allies as nations and friends as people.
There are certainly other challenges. Terrorism and gangsterism are very real problems, and they are alive and well in Pakistan, especially in the rough terrain of the Northwest Frontier region ruled by tribal militias and their blood feuds. The army continues to play an outsized role in government, and there are not yet any better options as the civilian leaders are mostly compromised by business interests and cronyism in a land where feudal tendencies appear time and again. But even these problems can be overcome by bringing Pakistan deeper into the community of nations, and further integrating Pakistan into world markets. India and the United States for their part can do more to help bring this about. I am convinced that instead of the delicate dance the three nations have done around each other since 1947, it is time for all to become closer friends and drop the pretexts for moving backward instead of forward. What I saw in Pakistan more than the perils, is great potential.
I plan to do my part, and this piece is only the first step.
(UPDATE 9/2/12): Thank you readers for over 2,000 facebook likes, 300 tweets, etc. I am very happy to see the reception this piece has gotten. Check out this video of a Pakistani band singing one of my favorite songs all-time:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa1MmBOMLH4
Mahanth S. Joishy is Editor of usindiamonitor.com.
Posted on July 8, 2012, in Consular/Travel. Bookmark the permalink. 119 Comments.
Mahanth, what a great article. I enjoyed reading it and have put Pakistan on my list of places to visit. You have done a very good job of decribing this country that many of us have been too afraid to visit. I look forward to reading more from you.
He visited the big cities. I suggest one should visit the Northern hilly areas as well.
- Naran,
- Kaghan,
- Sri paay,
- Lake Saifulmuluk and many more
You can compare the natural beauty with Switzerland landscape, if not more beautiful then not less beautiful as well.
100% agreed! If you are looking to visit Pakistan, don’t forget to visit the northern areas. Some more places to add:
Naanga Parbit
Gilgit
Sheosar-lake @ Deosai, Gilgit-Baltistan https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/309333_10151928232300258_1904974365_n.jpg
welcome on the behaf of the people of Pakistan…
I am glad some one took initiative to put things in the right perspective. We are a Sikh family and have wonderful amazing Muslim friends. There are always going to be cultural differences, religious disputes, political agendas, but human race should surpass that! There are all kinds of people & governments who are good and bad… One shouldn’t generalize them!
Excellent article, Mahanth. Indeed, it is an eye opener. Muslims are generally extremely hospitable people, even to their adversaries. Then they make formidable enemies for their adversaries as well. At individual level, most Pakistanis are good people. The problem is that the army and ISI has the state of Pakistan -pardon my French- by the balls. The only way they can stay in power is to project India as posing mortal threat to Pakistan. That would fetch them enough money to live in luxurious palaces in Abbotabad. These army guys, and to some extent the politicians, are true descendents of Aurangazeb, the last great Moghal emperor. Whenever Pakistanis visit India, they are meted out the same treatment you received in Pakistan. So, you are right. People to people contact is the best way to shattered some of the barriers dividing India and Pakistan. Keep at it, Mahanth. Congratulations! KPSK
It’s not only ISI & Pakistani army/politician but that same is true for RAW & Indian army/politician. Indian should accept that Pakistan is sovereign country & is their to exist. They must stop thinking that Pakistan is part of India & partition should have never happened. We should live like two brothers who have grown up, got married & now living in their families in their own houses but are still brothers. This is the way we pakistanis think.
This is my favorite comment of all!!!
nice joke who told india want with pakistan where u read this bullshit.u ever read any indian newspaper .by the way we never become friend this is a reallity .
Great Ahmad loved ur comments
True!!!
Couldn’t agree more! It would be nice to see India playing elder brothers role=)
So true Ahmed Shah, Pakistanis do think the same, and I being a descented Pakistani have felt that common people of Pakistan pay great homage and respect to expatriates than any other muslim nation, due to the cultural values that sub continent possesses and no religion can defy these cultural norms
No Indian thinks of Pakistan as part of India. Partition is definitely the best thing that has happened to India. All this people-to-people contact is nonsense. Indians/Pakistanis are not brothers, but strangers. The best approach is for India to cut all cultural and trade relations with Pakistan.
I’m impressed, livingonartha. India is a nation of 1.3 billion people and you have the uncanny ESP powers to know how EVERY ONE OF THEM thinks.
Or not. Thank goodness.
Excellent article dear Mahanth. It is an eye opener for every one to read about Pakistan. Keep up good wor.
wish you all the best.
aravind
Hi Mahanth, now you have made me more determined to visit Pakistan and I am sure , I’ll enjoy my trip. My Pakistani doctor colleagues will help me in my trip.
Mahanth
Great article about your trip to Pakistan. Thanks to your dad for senting it to us I share your feelings that Pakistani people are very friendly. In 1966 at Georgia Tech I had a very good friend from Lahore and after three years of friendship, he gave me his wedding ring as a symbol of friendship. Great people and by India and Pakistan working together with Afghanistan, they can truely build a great South Asian Society.
Keep us inform
Mohan Shenoy
858-703-7378
Islam is the most misunderstand religion and Pakistan is the most misinterpreted country in the world!!!
Agreed .We really have to show the real Pakistan to the world not what are media portrays .
lets work on it Aysha=)
A very well written piece, I would like to thank you as a Pakistani for taking this step and telling the other side of the story. I am really thankful to your true Pakistani friends who showed you the real face of Pakistan, a country where no one is forced to follow Islam or any other religion as it is an impression in Europe, at least in Germany I have found people who think that all Pakistani women are forced to cover their selves.
I will highly recommend you to plan another visit to my country, there is a lot of Natural beauty in the Northern Areas of Pakistan which surely will amaze you.
We speak the same language, we have the same kinds of food, moreover, we have the same skin color yet we are fighting for years. I hope people like you, people like your Pakistani friends, people like me and my Indian friends will bring an end to this.
Thanks again from a Proud Pakistani
I will be there and we shall share a meal at the table of brotherhood together.
Mahant thank you for the kind words about our country! Its a great feeling to know that a foreigner enjoyed his time in Pakistan and has positive things to say. My ancestors are from Lucknow and Muradabad and i keep hearing pleasent things about India as well. I have my extended family there and i cant get enough of the lovely and clothes they send now and then! Its sad how nasty we are depicted in the media. Its unfortunate that the people running our country are corrupt but fortunately the entire nation isnt. Me, my family and a couple of my friends would love to visit India but the inbuilt fears of stepping into an ‘apparently danger’ zone restricts us to do so! I hope Insha’Allah these feelings become a thing of the past and we learn to live in peace and harmony (ok im going to exclude cricket from this as its so much fun to cheer for our respective countries and get emotional! Haha!).
Hope you visit Pakistan more often now! Do have a stopover at Port Grand in Karachi!
My hair stood on end as I read through each word you chose to describe my motherland. After all, choice of words and actions is what has shaped the world as we see it. Even more exciting while disappointing is the fact that you had not visited Islamabad. Its official title is Islamabad – The beautiful, and none other could be truer. The most clean, green, pleasant weathered, lined by Margalla Hills, surrounded by Muree, 3 massive lakes, the most wide and zero-dirt roads, not to mention studded with the best commercial markets you’ll find anywhere boasting everything from International brands, exquisite handicrafts and food that makes your toes curl, during all of which you will meet people with shockingly perfect English. I implore you to visit Islamabad once, meet all the foreign diplomats who call it home and spend just 1 day in this gorgeous capital and I can assure you will want to extend your stay indefinitely.
So that’s enough for an intro to Islamabad, needless to say your article made my day and I too possess ignorant, ill-informed, disgusting generic view of India, which InshAllah I shall visit myself and learn the truths about.
Thank you, my neighbor for taking the time to talk about Pakistan, the land of the pure.
I will be back for sure and Islamabad is at the top of my list…
u shud have visited Quetta…then u wud see the real face of Pakistan where death and fear occupy the enitre city and how the resources and money from Balochistan is looted and spent on the cities of Pakistan…we r slain, looted, abducted, killed and dumped in our own land, where shia and ahmedi minorities are killed u shud have seen the province of lesser humans. BALOCHISTAN
This is definitely THE MOST pressing issue for Pakistan. Hopefully Baluchistan can be treated fairly, along with the Shias, Ahmedis, Christians etc of this country….
But the article itself is beautiful. Hope the same author will be able to visit and enjoy all other “prohibited” parts of Pakistan
you are great positive thinking can solve every problem
zeenaz u should need a good doctor what a joke money from balochistan
Excellent article. It’s nice to see that there are still people who see the world through their own eyes and not the eyes of the TV. I am from Karachi ,I have been living here for 2 years now and I absolutely love this city.
A refreshing article Mahanth, you have been very generous in your public duty by displaying the true picture of everyday life in Pakistan.
Every country in the world has the ‘good’ the ‘bad’ and the ‘ugly’, thank you for sharing the ‘good’ about Pakistan.
I am familiar with all the places mentioned and you seem to bring out the soul of this wonderful country. There are many wonderful places of interests to visit, the ordinary people are humble and welcoming, they soldier on with the limited resources they have to sustain themselves and their families regardless.
Muri and the Swat Valley is another eye opener not to be missed, the cool fresh air, the magnificent landscape, the hospitality of the local people the feeling of living on top of the clouds is truly wonderful. A word of caution once out there – ‘When in Rome do as the Romans do’.
Thank you once again.
Nice article friend, thanks for describing the TRUE PICTURE
Yay! Thank you, love you, God bless you!
FYI, booze is prohibited in Pakistan for Muslims, not non-Muslims who may purchase from wine shops.
Thank you for showing the true picture of Pakistan. On behalf of all the Pakistanis I thank you for this. Count me in for the table of brotherhood meal
i am thankful to you as a pakistani that you visited Pakistan inspite of wrong propaganda against our country…
This is pic of Katas Raj Temple Pakistan, have a look http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151926193265363&set=a.333158135362.340538.244253280362&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf
Am glad u enjoyed ur stay..but did u get to c historical delapidated hindu temples n shrines which are much much older than d mosques there…
If not then u saw what dey wanted u 2 c
This is pic of Katas Raj Temple in Pakistan, have a look http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151926193265363&set=a.333158135362.340538.244253280362&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf
Those temples and shrines may be old but still existing unlike Babri Masjid. Please do realize that when you point a finger at others…three point at your very own self=)
Zanib – there are over 200,000 mosques including atleast 10 Babri masjids (mosques built by Babar) in India. In Pakistan, the number of temples has dropped from 50,000 to 26. Pakistani Hindu girls aged 13 are kidnapped, converted and “married” off to 40 year old Muslim men in the name of “pure” Pakistan being a homeland for Muslims only. All this happiness is great but when are liberal educated Pakistanis going to remove anti-Hindu passages from Pakistan Studies school books and exams in top schools?
What are you on about?? Perhaps you should visit Nankana Sahib and see how beautifully the Gurdwaras have been maintained. Infact the Sikh yatris who came to Pakistan for baisakhi were so pleased with the arrangements and Pakistani hospitality they invited the gentleman responsible for the arrangements, Asif Hashmi, to lay the foundation stone of a Gurdwara in Delhi. Please dont be such a bigot!
Naive, at best. Scratch a bit below the surface, friend!
Why don’t you show me next time I’m there?
i wish people in other parts of the world visit Pakistan and change their opinion
Thank you mahanth!!! you painted a true picture of life in Pakistan….I have lived in karachi for 12 yrs and love it!!! I have Indian friends and never feel any difference….the divide is all politics. My next holiday is in India!!!
It’s a very daring move on ur part to tell the world the truth about us.
Do visit the Northern Areas, u’ll Find urself in HEAVEN.!!!
Peace, Love & Chocolate……:)
Speechless but a Big THANKS to you………………We need people like u….plz keep it up the great work
Mahanth
You surely missed the chance to visit Islamabad. Islamabad is all different from karachi and Lahore for many reasons, one of them being the architecture and the landscape. Next time, if you ever visit Pakistan, do land at Islamabad International and see for yourself a very well architect city between green margalla hills. I can be your host for sure
Regards,
Sohaib
Yes,true story
i am glad you enjoyed your trip to our country and thank you for raising above popular rhetoric. Hope you find time to visit us again.
Kudos, Mahanth Jee! for such a nice article. You visited selected places. I wish you could have spared time to visit some more people & places in the interior of our country. Your observations & feelings would have been even better.
Quite an accurate bit of writing.Thanks for making Karachi sound cleaner than it actually is and used to be.Used to be a much much better place before this accursed mqm came into being in 86!Tho i would support Ahmed Shah above,in saying that its Indians who still keep thinking of pakistan as their real estate.Might have been before 1947,but is not anymore.India is still huge area wise compared to Pakistan.Pakistan is a reality and will continue to be IA.Its not about our army or isi,its also about Raw and what all its upto in Afghanistan and Balouchistan,trying to destabilize Pakistan from within.
excellent article. I really appreciate the effort. i personally think the tension between India and Pakistan is also ignited by US and other Weapon exporting countries. Pakistan and India stock weapons and if relations gets better who will buy all those submarines, fighter jets, drones, missiles and all that high tech stuff? The moment India and Pakistan realize the fact that both are sovereign states and brothers, our defense budget will cut and poverty will eradicate.
Thanks Mahanth! They say it’s not important to be born in a perfect society but to make it better for the generations to come…. Hopefully, one day, common man in each country will learn to see beyond what media portrays…
Thank you again for doing justice to my beloved country=)
We’ll get there.
Good Article…..Thanks
Thank you buddy
Thanks to Mahanth and I congrates for bringing the truth out of the bottle. Each sentence is worth reading and a great article. Indeed, It,s bith sides Army/politics, who are developing rifts among the people. The major cause of defaming Pakistan is western media/US who are purposefully defaming and disfiguring the image of Pakistan. What western/india speaks about Pakistan is very far from the reality. In pakistan there are other the most beautiful / amazing places like Hunza, Islamabad, Kaghan, naran, abbotabad etc. I have alot of good friends from India here in Dubai and we all know it,s western media/politics, whichis creating gulfs among people of both sides.
I do not understand despite numerous terrorist attacks on Indians and thousands of people dead Indian Americans have a blinkered view of geopoliticaL situation In Indian subcontinent!!
The entire reason I went to Pakistan was to determine whether my view was blinkered or not. And I got a picture. I’d recommend that you get out of the house and do the same before challenging my view.
very well writen & expressed feeling. truely this is the time that both countries should come up with positive approach and work together to improve the basic needs of poor living in both countries. yes both countries are full talent and natural reserves then why not utilize them positively.
working together for a better future should be the salogan of both countries.
it really nice to read ur article. i m happy u praise our country. people of Pakistan are not narrow minded. we meet people with open heart. and wish Indians to be same like us. our religion teach us to give respect to any guest from any part of world from any religion.
Reblogged this on That Is My Viewpoint and commented:
Must read.
Hey Mahanth, Thanks for sharing the true picture about Pakistan with the world. Your article is a perfect example of the gap between perception and realty. Unfortunately, our own (Pakistanis) wrong moves first and then Western and Indian media’s role has portrayed this country as the most dangerous place – as rightly mentioned by yourself. This country is still open with its hospitality to foreigners travelers. Next time you must plan to explore the splendid beauty of northern areas of Pakistan, the cultural richness of this region, landscape and the warm heartedness of people has no match in the world. Blessings on you for bringing in the truth.
Sohail Ahmed e effort. Though I feel the bigger game dictates what media portrays of Pakistan. USA wants to retreat after shameful defeat in Afghanistan but on its way back is trying hard to get rid of nuclear arsenal of Pakistan. Be it fata or Baluchistan its US all around with its regional allies of course. But individuals like author of this article are salute ables for being generous enough to my beloved land Pakistan. I also think that it is our weakness that we have emerged as a chaotic country. We only need a government which is clean, patriotic, and able to set things and media right.
One more thing my friends, though I am a Karachite and have loved reading good about my Karachi in this article but if anyone has not been to our northernAreas he is really missing heaven on earth.
Be it hunza or skardu or the silk route, name it and its all there. Sorry for some sourness in my comment but the ground reality is much sour.
I am pleased to read your article. It was so refreshing. In fact our people in power have given such a nasty expression of our dear country that we are ashamed ourselves. Your thoughts give us hope that better days will surely come. If the politicians on both sides think like sane people the things can become a lot better. Anyhow thank you for portraying Pakistan in a nice way.
Ameer Mirza
http://ameermirza.wordpress.com
Excellent account! Just a slight correction: Alcohol is permissible for non-Muslims throughout Pakistan. Non-Muslims could obtain a liquor license and purchase alcohol from state-owned stores.
All the families of victims who died in 26/11 Mumbai attacks will be relieved that at least the terrorists came from cities that had such nice malls, restaurants, clean streets, etc. They’ll certainly be happy to forget about their friends/families because you had such a good time there. Cheers!
oh yes! and of course the whole populations of Karachi and Lahore were behind the upbringing of those trigger happy nutheads…. Am I right??
The visits to the Badshahi mosque and Jinnah’s mausoleum are a symptom of the systematic white-wash of history and culture by Pakistan. Too bad your friends couldn’t show you around ancient Hindu temples, Indus ghats, famous crematoriums or archaelogical artifacts in museums like ancient statues of Shiva and Ganesh….because guess what they’ve been wiped out!!! Historians who know the history of Punjab and Sindh would feel sad at the loss and NOT have a field day. You’ve been brain-washed into writing such an over-flattering article.
I’ve been to hundreds of temples throughout North and South India, including Badrinath, Kedarnath, Varanasi, Madurai, Rameshwaram, Tirupathi, Trivandrum, Udupi, and the list goes on. I was looking for something new and unique, and I got that.
I’m amazed at how people on both sides of the border are unable to get over the past.
Did you know that the percentage of Hindus in Pakistan have gone from something like 17% in 1947 to about 2% today? In Bangladesh it has gone from 32% to 7%. Whereas in India, the % of Muslims has gone UP. Now WHY IS THAT? Is it because these Hindus simply never learned to get along? Read up a bit on the plight of Hindus who have to live there on a daily basis – not those who fly in to hit the clubs in Lahore and Abbottabad for a few weeks with their friends from the US.
Where did u get the figures of Hindu population as a percentage of overall in Pakistan and Bangladesh? If Hindus are now 2% from 7% that does not mean they are lower in absolute numbers but a sign of increased Muslim and other population.
The writer had preveledged friends. But you can’t make it an excuse for assumed incidents he would have met with in Pakistan without them. Your language about Pakistan clearly shows you hate the country and your ideas are generalized by a few opinion leaders and the way you were brought up.
Now let’s talk about Hindus in Pakistan. I’m friends with many. They NEVER complained about their ‘plight’ in Pakistan however they show regrets how Muslims are treated in Hindustan and refer countless massacres that I don’t want to mention here. WE NEVER HELD RIOTS AGAINST HINDUS UNLIKE INDIA.
Keep your records straight before opening your mouth against Pakistan.
Very interesting article about your visit to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan. Its good to know that your prejudices & false perception of the land of my parents has been shattered. The more people from India visit Pakistan & vice versa, the better chance of normal relations between the two countries
Love the article.
Can’t really get the people still whining about this n that.
Get over it and have some love!!
Wonderful article, thank you for giving me a new perspective of my parent’s country. I completely agree that Pakistan and India should look to each other as friends and allies and grow that relationship – but disagree that the US needs to facillitate that. Why can no one do anything without Big US Brother giving the green light? I think the future would be a more interesting and beautiful place if the east could create harmony through it’s own efforts. Anyway, thank you again and please do visit again and keep us informed.
Speechless at the moment. Hats off to the writer for his choice of words and expressing the true feelings and showing the world the significant brighter side of Pakistan
Dudddddddddddddddeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee, you went to Lahore and you didn’t have FEEKA KI LASSI!!! ……………NOT GOOOD MANNN!! NOOOOTTT GOOOODDD!!! haha… Amazing article brother. And yes indeed Pakistan and India should take a step back. The reality of the Politically motivated hatred between the countries is cleared out by the very fact that in countries other than our homelands, we might and are really good friends with Indians/Pakistanis. Hell, I have an Indian friend I say is my brother from another mother.
Well done Mahanth! I had thought I’d lavish praise on your excellent writing, then I read all of the above and realized that I could’nt add anything new.
I am sure that you must have mixed feelings about the can of worms you have opened. As a newsprint editor you must be enjoying the reader interest you have generated, however the negative remarks by some, after your very objective narration, must have been disappointing for you.
The thing that puzzles me is that neither will the Muslims of the subcontinent accept the their undeniable Hindu ancestory nor will the Hindus accept the volumes of Muslim blood that runs in their veins. Pity. Because Kipling was refering to world apart, but it seems that ” never the twain shall meet” is more true of people of the same “family”.
Grow up, people!
Khalid Malik
Bahrain .
See if a Pakistani visit ind most likely they will b killed by shiv sena
Congrats sir for highlighting the truth about Pakistan.
Pakistanis have gone through a lot recently and they have been misguided by bad leaders and corrupt politicians.
As an Indian i am very happy to know that Pakistan is indeed a great country that has so much to offer
I love Pakistan and hope that the people get the best in future,
I also know that the majority of them are honest peace loving people who would never harm an Indian
The militants are very few and the majority of the population is lovely
Thank you for this positive article about Pakistan. As a Pakistani origin, i’m very happy to see something like this – the country has been criticized over and over again. I am also glad that you had a good time
However just one thing i’d like to point out – as someone that has grown up in Qatar, Bahrain and Kuwait I completely disagree with your comment on the Middle East. What you are referring to is Saudi Arabia. The rest of the middle east is nothing like that – westerners (and others) wear what they like – and when they like. And nothing is shut down for prayers… malls, supermarkets, restaurants .. they are all open throughout the day and do not close down. Yes there are more people in traditional clothing and hijabs – but it is a very liberal society here. Please be more careful when making comments like that – the Middle east is another place which people have many misconceptions about.
I fully agree. As someone who has travelled through middle east a lot, i can tell you that Bahrain and UAE are a different world altogether vs. Saudi. In fact i would say that these two are one of the very few countries of the world where western, South Asian and Middle eastern culture co-exist in perfect harmony. Forced hijab and closing of shops at prayer times only happens in Saudi… and there too you need to keep in mind that Saudi has been an entirely Muslim country for 1400 years and has no plans or interest in becoming a culturally diverse place.
As far as Saudiarabia is concerned,yes they have some traditions and they take care of these very much,but they dont harm others ,rather their traditions to give respect to others and some other qualities are very much impressive ,For example they never use abusive language ,come what may..Iam a Pakistani doctor here in saudia and these things even are admitted by my US doctor colleagues who are non-muslims.
Refreshingly a balanced analysis of Pakistan from an American of Indian origin! Enjoyed reading it!
Thanks a lot for depicting true Pakistan in this article.. Much appreciated..
Really an opener…
Thanks for exposing the illogical fears and misconceptions about Pakistan.
All I can say is “Thank You for writing this”. As a Pakistani and a Lahori, we have been mispresented for too long.
After reading tons and tons of negative articles about my country, it was really refreshing to read your positive article. Thank you from the depth of my heart. I am under no illusions about the severe problems my country faces… religious militancy being the foremost of them. But these problems can only be solved if we focus more on the positives about Pakistan; if we just dismiss the entire country as a basket case it will ultimately only demoralize the positive moderate forces in the country and strengthen the intolerant extremists further…
Thank you for writing a beautiful article about the very beautiful and culturally rich Pakistan.. I would just like to add theres a lot more to Pakistan than its major cities. It boasts of few of the oldest civilizations like Mohenjo Daro in Sind , Harrapa in Punjab and then Texila depicting the Buddhist culture from the early years . Pakistan is the only country in the world where the three highest mountain ranges meet : the Himalyas, the Kurakuram and the HinduKush range .. We have 9 of the highest mountain peaks in the world including K2. Shandoor is the highest polo ground in the world … But coming down from the mountains even in Karachi a history buff can visit so many places like Mohatta palace, Jahangir Kotahari place, Empress Market, DJ Science College , Saddar Bazar , Burns Road etc. etc. Karachi also happens to have one of the largest mangroves in the world .. .. It’s just that due to corrupt politicians and officials and an equally 3rd class tourism department the world does not know of a hidden gem…Pakistan … Whose northern areas are breath taking . Just to let you know I live in Vancouver , Canada but am a very proud Pakistani !!! Thank you once again for the beautiful article …
The adage, SEEING IS BELIEVING” has its day in Mahanth refreshing travelogue which took us all spell bound. There is a lot lot more to show case about Pakistan and more particularly, I am talking of the wonderful Sialkot, one of the world’s oldest living cities of the world with 5000 years of documented history. It is the birthplace of Gulzari Lal Nanda, Rajinder Kumar and more particularly the living legend in the world of journalism, Kuldip Nayyar. Sialkot has emerged as the world’s largest industrial cluster in the manufacture of Surgical Instruments, Sports Goods, Leather Garments and this is a fascinating city of the TRENDY EXPORTERS, which works round the clock and never sleep. Sialkot has also presented a shining example of Private-Public partnership and Sialkot International Airport is the glaring example for the rest of the developing world. It also presented the living concept of a Dry Port, with state of the art facilities which could be matched with any dry port of the advanced world. This is my first hand observation about this great city where you will find a contrasting diversity. Keep Sialkot as your next destination in your itinerary.
I am very interested in doing so! Thanks for the comments.
Dear Mahanth S. Joishy, Thank you very much for visiting Pakistan and writing such a beautiful article. All the bad image of my beloved country is creation of western and indian media. I hope this will be a first step to bring the reality in front of world. In 2010 I visited India and I was surprised to see the love of people they extended to us. All the hatred is created by politicians. Public of both countries is extremely good, hospitable and friendly. Pl keep it up in future as well.
I too hope this is only a first step and I would certainly like to do more.
Thank you for this.
I’ve read and heard many accounts of Indian journalists and others visiting Pakistan and all of them have written of the warmth and hospitality they were extended. Most of them have spoken of payment being refused for tea or even a meal by Pakistani restaurateurs upon being told that the diner was from the other side of the border.
It is great to read this two days before the Independence Day of Pakistan.
May our two people come closer and discover our common humanity.
Dear All
Please note that the so called image problem with Pakistan has emerged only after 9 11. Because the image was built and evidences of bad image such as bomb blasts and extreemism were either created or sponsored just to achieve a much larger and far impacted goal of keeping American presence.
Either the world is blind or just dont want to see the power game of US. Did they find any WMDs in Iraq after bombing the poor country. Saddam was used then executed when he was of no use.
America truly knows that the world is Stupid and is prone to blind beliefs if the word comes from a strong nation.
This whole game by US will come to an end sooner or later and there will be image problem anymore, but we are so stupid that we will realize it once the game is over.
Dear Brother,
i really appreciates the way you defines the reality to all of the world and keep your nationalism spirit beside. one of a true saying i must to say here.
bhullay shah dil othhey daiay jithey agla qader v jane.
i really appreciate your those friends who convinced you and invites you to Pakistan because they chose the right and perfect person who is able to praised for and dear brother now i am inviting you to Islamabad the capital of Pakistan and you will really surprise when you found the hot welcome and hostile nature of our people here in Islamabad than i guarantee that you will have more and more enough to say something about the beauty of true Pakistan and Pakistan.
my email id’s are
hotguykim@hotmail/yahoo.com
farhatali.kamran@yahoo/hotmail.com
hotguykim@gmail/facebook.com
M. Kamran Iqbal
+92-321-8548083
+92-300-8548083
+92 -51- 5538083
Mr. Iqbal, thank you for your kind invitation and I plan to look you up next time I am able to visit Pakistan again. Hopefully soon!
Sincerely,
Mahanth
Dear Mahant,
It is clear that the War Machine cannot be wished away. The silver
lining is that there are other types of businesses- tourism, trade,education- that could make a profit- thanks to the activism of people like yourself.
I sent your article to several friends – also from across the border. One of them wrote that these accounts have brought much needed joy and
made the eyes moist.
Easing visas would go a long way in allaying mutual suspicions. There was a recent news item that, in the near future, senior citizens would be able to get a visa on arrival in India and Pakistan. I thought I would never live to see this day.
Several other Indian journalists have also written about their visits to Pakistan:
http://usindiamonitor.com/2012/07/08/eye-opener-an-indian-american-visits-pakistan/#comments
http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-04-22/pakistan-s-unplanned-revolution-rewrites-its-future.html
http://www.thehindu.com/opinion/columns/hindol_sengupta/article399991.ece
http://www.thehindu.com/opinion/columns/hindol_sengupta/article429776.ece
http://www.countercurrents.org/sikand100608.htm
All this is most heartening. Pakistanis could gain so much from India in its excellence in computer sciences, mathematics and the arts.
I enjoyed this article a lot. I wanted to visit Pakistan, but due to bad publicity about gangs I was sceptical. Now I think you have opened the doors for me to go and see. I read some negative comments from ignorant people in this column. They will never change and try to live in harmony. We should not keep old misunderstanding and go on ahead with life with love and happiness.
This ia
This is the best comment for this article so far.
Instead of gushing like a schoolgirl getting a Brad Pitt autograph, I would suggest the author spend some time as a common Hindu man in the areas of Pakistan away from where his well-heeled Pakistani-American buddies reside. Try going to Pakistani elementary schools and read up on what is being taught each and every Pakistani child about Hindus like him. Try walking around different parts of the country alone wearing a T-shirt with the “Om” sign on it.
What a remarkably shallow and pre-pubescent article!
You are one of the many who didn’t read everything I wrote and made unfair judgments based on that. But it takes people blinded by religion and nationalism like you to prove my point better than I ever could.
Obviously you are someone who has forgotten what Hinduism is all about, if you ever once did know, and would not appreciate a trip across the border. So you should stay away in your own small-minded world, where you belong. I’m sure it’s a perfect place with no problems whatsoever.
After Pakistan tour, if you reach safe, that is fine. Sunni kills Shia . Taliban kills Lashkar e Islam. Lashkar e Taiba kills Indians. Its all only killings in that country. If you want to visit Pakistan, do that
tell your family members before you go that to do your funeral process if no call no show. Pakistan is a Jihadi country, Its a Terrorist country. Pakistanis are not real Muslims, they are converted Muslims. Bad guys.
I appreciate your opinions but would respect them more if you visited yourself and then commented.
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